Beginners' guide - Tropical, Freshwater Aquarium

Author: Caryl Simpson
Article was first publish in NZ Aquarium World magazine, Sept. ‘95

If you are setting up for the first time, what do you need to sort out first? It is important to decide what you want before you start.

Location: Where are you going to put the aquarium?

They do best out of direct sunlight. In fact, a quiet, dark corner is ideal. Too much light will encourage the growth of algae.

How strong is the floor?

If you want a large tank (over 1 metre), it pays to check the floor joists. There are many stories of aquariums going through the floorboards. If it was upstairs at the time it can be even more exciting!

What are you going to put the aquarium on?

A strong cabinet is a must. Make sure it is reinforced as well. A sheet of polystyrene between the tank and the cabinet is a good idea. It will help keep the heat in and provide a buffer between the two, lessening the chance of cracking. 1 cm thick should be enough on tanks up to 60cm and 2cm on larger ones. A backing sheet made out of polystyrene will also help to keep the heat in and save on power.

Size:

The size of the aquarium is often dictated by the size of the space you have to put it in. Make sure you have room above for easy access when cleaning it or catching fish.
Is there a power point nearby?
Running extension leads round the room can be dangerous, especially if they run across doorways. Don't have the power outlet directly below the aquarium. Water and electricity don't mix!

Now that you have decided where to put your aquarium and how big it is going to be, you must next think of what you are going to put in it before you add any fish.

Hardware:

The type of set-up you want will dictate what sort of hardware to use. If you want large fish like oscars, you will want as much of the equipment outside the tank as possible as they take great delight in breaking things. The more expensive the object, the more likely it is to be broken!

Heating:

There are three basic heating systems available and which one you use is up to you. The most common is the heaterstat. This has a heater and thermostat together in one tube. You can also get them separately. This enables you to run several heaters off the one thermostat, heating more than one tank at the time. The disadvantage to this is that if the thermostat develops a fault, it upsets several tanks at once. The other heating choice is the external pad that sits under the tank. It runs off a thermostat too which can be either inside or outside the aquarium. Of course, if your house is heated and stays a constant temperature of between 20 - 25°C, a heater may not be needed. A thermometer in the tank will tell you instantly whether the water is at the correct temperature.

Filtration:

Next to think about is filtration. You don't actually need a filter but I would recommend one for beginners. They save a lot of time, as less maintenance is required.
Again, a range of filters is available, depending on your needs, and which one you choose depends on what types of fish you intend to keep. For a standard community tank it is a matter of personal choice. Remember, the bigger the tank, the more filtration is needed. Large fish need more than small as they create more mess and excrete more into the water.

Undergravel:

A popular filter is the undergravel. Water is drawn down through the gravel where the wastes are broken down by nitrifying bacteria. This purifies the water and turns waste into fertiliser. You need a separate pump to run this filter.

Airlift filters:

Often called “box filters”, these work well in small tanks (up to 50 litres). They are good at removing small particles in the water. Made of Perspex, they have filter wool (and sometimes charcoal) inside and sit in a comer on top of the gravel. They also need a separate pump.

Power filters:

These are very popular. Some are canisters, which fit inside the aquarium. They have their own pump built in and filter the water through a special sponge, which traps the unwanted muck while releasing the cleaned water back into the aquarium.

External filters:

These attach to the outside of the aquarium with an uplift tube hanging down in the water. These filters come in various sizes and can be used for a wide range of tanks.
For really large tanks you need a free-standing type of filter. These are usually put out of sight in a cupboard under the aquarium with an inlet and outlet tube running up and into the tank.

Pump:

Needed for undergravel and box filters. Come in a range of sizes. The bigger the tank, the bigger the pump. Check the box it comes in for the correct size needed for your tank.

Lids:

Once you have the location, size, heating and filtration sorted out, you could look at a lid and lighting. A lid is important on a tropical tank for several reasons. Firstly it keeps the heat in, and children and animals out. A lot of heat is lost at the water surface. It also allows condensation to drop back into the aquarium and the water level will drop quite quickly without a lid. Finally, many fish are good jumpers and although they are good at leaping out, none seem to have worked out how to leap back in!
Lids are usually made of wood, metal or glass. If it is made of wood, make sure it has been suitably treated against water damage. When wet, wood will swell and warp. Don't use anything that will be toxic to the fish either. Metal lids look good and are easy to maintain. Both wooden and metal lids can have light fittings inside them out of sight. A sheet of glass makes a cheap lid. I have fluorescent lights with reflectors just sitting on top of my glass lids. The glass is hinged with silicon so I can lift up the front to feed the fish without having to remove the light and lift the whole lid.

Now that you have the hardware sorted out, it is time to look at decor. Aquariums can be set up in many different ways to achieve all sorts of effects. Always remember the needs of your fish.

Gravel:

Dark coloured gravel is best and will show the fish’s colours better. The fish prefer it as it gives them a sense of security knowing it helps to camouflage them from enemies above. It also doesn't reflect the light as much as light coloured gravel which tends to attract more algae.
The size of the gravel can depend on the size of the tank and fish. If you have an undergravel filter, make sure the gravel is larger than the filter holes. If you have bottom feeders, make sure the gravel is smooth or the rough edges will wear away their barbels. Goldfish have a habit of accidentally swallowing stones and larger ones can cause a blockage in their gut.
If you wish to add rocks, make sure they are "safe". Lime is bad for the fish. To test a rock for lime, put it in a container and pour a little vinegar on it. If it fizzes anywhere at all, don't use it.

Driftwood:

Looks lovely in an aquarium. Indeed, it is an important part of some fish's diets ie. the bristlenose (Ancistrus sp) catfish. Hardwood is best. Willow is toxic to some species so avoid it. Boil the wood to get it clean and remove some of the tannin. Tannin is the brown colour that leaches into the water from the wood. It is harmless but can discolour the water. Native woods are great, such as rata or rimu. West coast beaches, at river mouths, are a good place to look for pieces washed down from the bush.

Plants:

Plants are an important part of a balanced aquarium. The more plants you have, the better. Apart from providing nutrients and making the aquarium look nice, plants are used by the fish for security. They give them somewhere to hide or spawn. They are also a good source of food, both the leaves and roots themselves and the algae that grow on them. Always leave a free-swimming area in the middle of the tank.

Now that you have your aquarium set up and it has been running for at least a week, it is time to add some fish to allow the good bacteria to grow and the tank to generally settle.

Fish:

There are many to choose from and your club or local library will have plenty of books to help you. Not all fish are compatible with others. In fact, some fish are not compatible with others of their own kind let alone other species!
Some fish like acid water and others prefer it alkaline. Some eat all the plants, others rearrange the gravel continually, messing up your landscape. There are fish that are happy being one of a kind, while others prefer to be in a shoal. Some swim fast, some swim slowly. This is where your club can help you choose the right fish to begin with rather than learn the hard (and expensive) way which species don't mix.
Some suggestions of popular fish for beginners:
(not necessarily all good together in one tank)

tetras
guppies
barbs
gouramis
corydras
platies
swordtails
rasboras

As a general rule, do not put big fish with smaller ones or fast swimmers (short fins) with slow swimmers (long fins).